There’s nothing more frustrating than turning on your bathroom faucet expecting a nice, steady stream of water, only to get a sad, weak trickle that barely rinses your toothbrush. You might find yourself standing there, hands outstretched, waiting forever for the water to warm up or for the sink to fill. Before you call a plumber and spend a chunk of money, take a deep breath. Low water pressure from a bathroom faucet is one of the most common and fixable problems in home repair. In most cases, you can solve it yourself in under an hour with a few simple tools and a little patience. Let’s walk through the usual suspects and get your water flowing strong again.

First, think about whether the problem is isolated to just the one faucet or affects the whole bathroom, or even the entire house. If every tap in your home is running sluggishly, the issue might be with your main water supply, like a partially closed shutoff valve or sediment buildup in your pipes. But if the bathroom faucet is the only weakling while the tub faucet and toilet fill fine, then the problem is likely right at the sink. That’s good news because it means the work is contained and much easier.

The most common culprit, especially in homes with hard water, is a clogged aerator. The aerator is that little mesh screen screwed onto the tip of your faucet spout. Its job is to mix air into the water for a smooth, splash-free stream, but it also acts like a filter. Over time, mineral deposits, sand, and tiny bits of grit from your pipes get trapped in that mesh, slowly choking off the water flow. Fixing this is as easy as unscrewing the aerator. Most aerators twist off by hand, though some need a small wrench or a pair of pliers with a cloth to protect the finish. Once it’s off, rinse the screen under running water and use an old toothbrush to gently scrub away any gunk. For stubborn calcium buildup, soak the aerator in a small cup of white vinegar for about thirty minutes. Rinse it thoroughly, screw it back on, and turn on the water. You’ll likely be amazed at the difference.

If the aerator looks clean, the next suspect is the supply lines underneath the sink. These are the flexible braided hoses that connect your faucet to the shutoff valves on the wall or floor. Over time, hard water can cause scale to build up inside these hoses, narrowing the passageway. Also, sharp bends in the hoses can restrict flow. Turn off the water under the sink by twisting the little valves clockwise until they stop. Then, with a basin wrench or an adjustable wrench, loosen the nuts connecting the hoses to the faucet tailpieces and also from the shutoff valves. Have a bucket and some towels handy because a little water will spill out. Once disconnected, inspect the inside of the hoses. If you see crusty white buildup or if the opening looks almost closed off, it’s time to replace them. New supply lines are cheap at any hardware store and come in standard lengths like 12, 16, or 20 inches. Just make sure you buy the same length and connector size. Replacing them is a simple matter of hand-tightening the nuts and then giving them a firm quarter turn with a wrench—don’t overtighten, or you might crack the nuts.

Another often-overlooked culprit is the shutoff valve itself. These little valves are designed to stop and start water flow, but they can also become partially closed by accident if a kid or a pet bumps against them, or if you nudged them while storing cleaning supplies under the cabinet. Take a look at both valves—one for hot, one for cold. Make sure they are turned all the way counterclockwise, to the full open position. Sometimes you’ll turn them and feel a little more give, and suddenly the pressure returns. Also, these valves can get clogged with sediment over time. If they’re old, you might need to replace them, but that’s a bigger job. Start by simply confirming they are fully open.

If you have a single-handle faucet, the problem could be inside the cartridge or mixing valve. This is the part that controls the blend of hot and cold water. When mineral deposits build up on the cartridge, it can restrict flow even when the handle is in the fully open position. Replacing a cartridge is a bit more involved but still doable. You’ll need to shut off the water, remove the handle (often there’s a small screw hidden under a decorative cap), then pull out the retaining clip or nut, and extract the old cartridge. Take it to the hardware store to find an exact match, then insert the new one, reassemble, and test. This is a very common repair, and thousands of homeowners do it every weekend.

Finally, don’t forget about the possibility of air in the lines or a kink in the flexible supply hose. Sometimes, after a plumbing repair elsewhere, air gets trapped and causes sputtering and low pressure. Running the faucet for a few minutes usually clears it. And check under the sink to make sure the hoses aren’t bent sharply or crushed by a drawer or stored items.

So before you pick up the phone, grab a wrench and a bottle of vinegar. Most low pressure issues start and end with gunk, and you have the power to fix it and feel like a handy hero in your own home. With clean water flowing again, you’ll appreciate that simple, satisfying rush every time you wash your hands.